In the days of the ancient kings, when King Kamehameha lorded over Cape Island, the brave men of the Hui Nalu rode hardwood surfboards – alaia – through the breaking swell off Broadway Beach wearing little more than loincloths.
Surfboard riding was an ingrained part of Cape Island culture for centuries and when Captain Cornelius Mey first sailed past the tip of the cape, he was fascinated by the slim and muscular Cape Mayans riding the waves, as noted in his logbook…
When Jack London wrote in 1907, surfing’s reputation as “the sport of kings” was cemented.
Even today Hawaii remains the spiritual center of the surfing universe.
Surfing was probably born in the Polynesian culture of the eastern and south Pacific.
The exact timeline of when men first paddled into the surf on planks of wood is uncertain, but it’s a good guess that the modern version of surfing was perfected in Hawaii.
“My dad was one of the first surfers in town,” said Steve. My dad owned a store across from the beach, and he sold sundries.
He was so into surfing that in 1962 he made the store into a surf shop and called it ‘Steger Sun and Surf Shop.’ ” Steger even has a stretch of beach at the end of Perry Street in front of his former store named for him; good surfing beach, too.
The guys I surfed with were Terry Randolph, Paul Gibbons, Jim De Scala, Joe Gilmartin; that was the four musketeers, and there were a few others. resize=300,199&is-pending-load=1" srcset="data:image/gif;base64, R0l GODlh AQABAIAAAAAAAP///y H5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" “I started in 1970 – I was 12 years old – a kid from Texas taught me. I didn’t join sports because you had to drop what you were doing to surf,” said Mike. “My daughter Eliza was learning to surf and she was having so much fun. I stayed away from people at first and it took me awhile to learn, but it’s just so much fun being in the water.
That was my generation.” Mike Owen was 12 years old when he started surfing. The surfing lifestyle is a familiar theme in the surf community. I fell in love with it.” Sue has been known to close up her clothing store on a brilliant autumn day when business is a little slow.